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French Regions Factsheet id: 34 | |
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A WELL KEPT SECRET - Charente-Limousine
Moulded by the Vienne river, which weaves its turbulent blue thread through lush green countryside, the little-known Charente-Limousine region of southwest France boasts a micro climate that gives a thousand more sunshine hours than Paris, lakes that incite lazy bathing, some of the best preserved Roman remains in Europe and gastronomic specialities guaranteed to make your mouth water. One of six sub-divisions of the larger Charente department, Charente-Limousine stretches from its medieval capital, Confolens, in the north-east, to the busy maquis town of Chasseneuil in the south-west. As its name suggests, the area is really a blend of two zones brought together centuries ago for the usual administrative reasons, but still divided by ancient traditions, by language (two different forms of patois are spoken here) and by nature: the Charente side has a chalky soil where vines abound, while Limousin has a thicker loam dotted with purple heather and the deep shade of chestnut trees. The well-signposted route des Lemovices - a road used by the Romans to carry wine and salt from the Atlantic coast as far as Rome - is an ideal thread to follow if you want to discover the region's past. Cutting across countryside dotted with the stony tussocks of crumbled bridges, this ancient highway was an important economic axis during the second Century. How are the mighty fallen! These days the well preserved theatre and Roman baths at Chassenon are all that remain of the large and prosperous Empire, which once lorded it over this area. Renowned for its fertile soil the area also abounds in plant nurseries and botanical gardens and a must-see for the green-fingered is the town of Chabanais, lying further along the lush Vienne valley. Its charms include a well-stocked botanical garden and a horticultural festival each Autumn, which honours La Quintinie, the Sun King's innovative gardener, who was born here in 1626. The region's soil might be fertile, it is also deeply scarred by conflicts and many of the battles of the Hundred Years War took place here. Numerous chateaux forts still bear witness to those troubled times and the castle of Rochebrune, near Etagnac, is definitely the most imposing. Erected during the middle ages by the lords of Chabanais, to defend the Vienne river and access to the Charente valley, the forbidding stronghold is still owned by one of their descendants, and can be visited in season. More recent tribulations are commemorated at Chasseneuil-sur-Bonnieure. Split in two by the Demarcation Line which separated occupied France from Vichy France during WWII, the city's memorial, shining out over surrounding countryside, is a constant reminder. A crypt beneath the memorial's stark, sculpted flag shelters the remains of 28 resistance heroes; men like Claude Bonnier, alias Hypothénuse, who was mandated by de Gaulle to organise the French resistance movement, and Colonel André Chabanne, founder of the maquis Bir Hakeim. Just a short drive away Lavaud's 140 hectare lake is a shrine to more frivolous matters. Originally used to irrigate the fields of maize which rustle like bamboo in summer's breezes, it was rapidly colonised by holidaymakers and now boasts meticulously raked beaches, snack bars, ping pong tables and a fleet of sleek mirror dinghies just waiting to prove their stuff. For a theme visit with a difference 'Au Pré de la Vache' offers a chance to learn everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-cows-but-were-scared-to-ask, and kids adore the newly opened Adventure Park where they can strap on a harness and clamber to the forest's lofty summit. Talking of forests, in Charente they are everywhere and the region's pine, chestnut and oak just cry out for mushroom hunters who come seeking the royal cep. Other gastronomic delights include luscious entrées like the migeot, a silky consommé made of bread soaked in white wine, and cagouilles (snails) served lightly braised in a rich garlic sauce. Summer heralds the arrival of the orange-fleshed melon charentais which is served chopped in two and soaked in Pineau (a syrupy, fortified wine made with grape skins soaked in cognac) and lip-smacking main dishes include chou farci, a crisp, green cabbage stuffed with pork, and home-cured ham served on a bed of white beans known as mojettes. Staggering away from one of those long, lazy lunches, a great way to get back into shape is to hire a kayak on the Vienne and see the region from it's waterside. For an equally active après dejeuner try a ride on Manot's vélo-rail and plunge deep into the blissfully shaded forest with only the buzz of bees and hum of birds for company. Or why not take a trip to Confolens, and spent an afternoon sauntering round Charente-Limousine's medieval capital? Vibrant with life during the August folk festival, when groups from all over the world gather to sing and dance in the city's cobbled streets, the rest of the time Confolens drowses like a cat alongside the river Vienne. Despite it's dozy air there's plenty to do: sample Pineau at the well-stocked Vinitheque, browse the antique shops, clamber up the Puits d'Olivet to the place Docteur Defaut for panoramic views, slide down through narrow alleys via the rue des Buttes and the rue de Soleil and admire the half-timbered abode where the Duke of Epernon hid Marie de Medicis. Whether it's culture or Cognac you're after, Confolen's heady mix of history and hedonism neatly summarizes the Charente-Limousine, a region split in two by its past but reunited by present pleasures. THE ESSENTIALS GETTING THERE AIR: Ryan Air (www.ryanair.com) who've taken over most of the routes Buzz used to cover, have daily flights into Limoges. For best deals book through their website. Once you arrive in Limoges take the N141 directly to Chasseneuil-sur-Bonnieure. SEA Brittany Ferries (0845 345 345; www.brittanyferries.co.uk) sails from Portsmouth to Saint-Malo, one of the best ports for linking up with routes through to south-east France . RAIL: The TGV (0870 584 8848; www.raileurope.co.uk). connects Paris Montparnasse with Angoulême. From Angoulême, Chasseneuil-sur-Bonnieure is half-an-hours drive away, along the N141. ROAD: From St Malo the quickest route is via Rennes, Nantes and Niort. From Niort take the avenue de Limoges to join the D740 which leads to Confolens. WHERE TO EAT For a real 'locals' address try the Château de la Redortière (16310 Lésignac Durand; tel: 05 45 65 07 62) a charming 19th century logis hidden down a leafy alley near Mas Chaban lake which cooks up a host of specialties, including Chou farci and Mojette soup, according to season. Menus from 15 euros. For a more swanky gastronomic rendezvous try some of the exquisite dishes on offer at the Chateau with it's gilded mirrors and crystal chandeliers which once belonged to King Francois 1er (Château de Nieuil, 16270, Nieuil; tel: 05 45 71 36 38) and get hot and sticky-fingered over delights like the foie gras chaud de canard aux pommes and the mijotee d'oie. Menus from 32 euros The Côte de Boeuf (16150 Pressignac; tel: 054589 3597) overlooking Lavaud lake is a delightful spot to sample steaks from local farms, grilled over an open fire, and fresh fish dishes. Menus start from 13 euros. For good home cooking, with no frills, in an authentically rustic setting try Berengers restaurant (16310 Cherves-chatelars; tel: 05 45 65 07 34) Set menus, including wine, start at 8 euros. OUTINGS The roman baths at Chassenon (16150 Chassenon: tel: 05 45 89 22 49. ) are amongst the best-preserved in Europe . Visits from Easter to late September. Tickets: Rocheburne castle (16150 Etagnac; tel: 05 45 89 08 29) has frescoes and fabulous antique artefacts in a fully-furnished interior. Open from June to September. Tickets: Chasseneuil's war memorial (16260 Chasseneuil; tel: 05 45 39 65 21) is open to the public every day from sunrise to sunset. Visits to the crypt on demand. Find out more about 'Au Pré de la Vache' and Adventure park from The Lakes Tourist office (16310 Massignac; tel: 05 45 65 26 69) Kayaks along the river Vienne can be hired at Exideuil. (Tel: 05.45.84.43.70 or contact the tourist office). From 8 Euros p/p. The Vélo-rail (16500 Manot; tel: 05 45 71 16 64) leaves from Manot and costs 25 euros p/p. CLIMATE Charente-Limousine has a generally mild climate, although summers can be hot and a generous sprinkling of rain during late autumn and early Spring explain the region's lush countryside. CONTACTS Maison des Lacs, 16310,Massignac; tel: 05 45 65 26 69. Confolens Tourist Office, place des Marroniers, 16150, Confolens; tel: 05 45 84 22 22. www.tourisme-confolens.com Author: Heidi Fuller-love is a regular contributor to France magazine, Living France, French magazine, Everything Spain, Spanish Homes. Member of NWU www.nwu.org and Writer and Photographers Unlimited www.wpu.org.uk To see more of Heidi's travel features go here: http://www.travelintelligence.net/wsd/writers/writ_1166.html or here: http://monsite.wanadoo.fr/fullerlove.freelance To see more of her photos go here: http://www.wpu.org.uk/galleries/Heidi/1.html Heidi Fuller-love's new book,"Crossing the Loire", is a wicked, witty - and sometimes worrying - account of moving to Charente, in the heart of rural France. Check it out here: http://www.totalfrance.com/reference/library/library.php?section=work Disclaimer: This article should be regarded as a guideline only. It has not been updated since Mar. 19 2005. Total France cannot warranty that the information it contains is either accurate or current. Do not make any decisions without obtaining professional advice that you know to be current. The above article is © the author where stated, or © TotalFrance where no author is named The article may be printed for personal reference, but may not be published,copied or re-used for any other purpose without permission. |
